Before each home game this season, ClipperBlog will run “ClipperBlog Eats,” a restaurant recommendation from its resident restaurant reviewer, Ben Mesirow. Below is today’s suggestion:
Milwaukee is home to many excellent things, good beer, great smoothies (apparently), and a Mormon population whose average height recently skewed upwards, but here’s something you probably won’t find: a rice bowl, topped with marinated chicken, Chinese broccoli, Thai basil, red chilies, sambal-infused sour cream, and a fried egg – a complex mash-up of influences that somehow form a cohesive, fabulous whole. Such is the experience at Chego, chef Roy Choi’s tiny Chinatown ode to the rice bowl. The flavors have origins all over the globe, but the more profound realization may be that the flavors also come from all over Los Angeles, from KTown to the SGV, Thai Town to East LA.
Chego’s distinctive inspirations, of course, wouldn’t mean much if the food wasn’t amazing. Fortunately for everyone, it is – the food is delicious, bold and intense. The kochujang pork belly is perfectly smoothed by cotija cheese in the Chubby Pork Belly bowl, the creamed horseradish finds harmony with Chinese broccoli and water spinach in the Prime Rib Rice Plate, and a multitude of salsas complement the toasted sesame and fried shallots on the charred seasonal veggies. It is a fun and profoundly saucy place, as expressive in the bowl as the chef himself is on twitter. And at under $10 per bowl, Chego is perhaps the best dollar-for-dollar meal you can get in this city. Chalk up another win for cross-cultural alchemy.
727 North Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012; eatchego.com